Starting out on a low simmer, and bubbling over by episode 4, Ned’s club caught up with costume designer Alex Bovaird to find out how she created season three’s loud luxury look
Alex Bouvaird
You were the stylist on the first two series, picking up Emmy’s on the way, what’s it like being back for round three?
It has been so much fun, a labour of love and a true honour to be caught up in the cultural zeitgeist . We actually only got nominated for Seasons 1 and 2 - give us the Emmy for S3 dammit ;)
Transporting the series to Thailand, how did approach this season?
I had been in Thailand in the 90s so what I had in mind was that it was going to be incredibly hot, and that on the islands there was going to be limited access to shopping and resources. Mike White had set the bar high and forecast a bigger, better and splashier show, so I knew I’d have to work hard to bring a huge cargo of clothing and accessories with me! I shopped, borrowed, custom made and sourced high and low to make sure the cast had vast closets for their fittings.
There’s a lot of talk about loud luxury this season, and everything seems very elevated, what was the rationale behind that?
The White Lotus is chaotic, unpredictable, dazzling and brilliant – I did my best to echo that sartorially and serve the story and characters. The show is contemporary, but everyone is dressing the part, projecting the holiday of their dreams, so it’s an opportunity to go a bit over the top, to have fun and put forward colourful and eye-catching ideas. Mike White has a lot to say, and the dialogue is so clever and thought provoking, but he also wants you to enjoy the show, to treat your imagination and to be entertained - the costume department aim to support his lush and dreamy vision.
With series like White Lotus dictating trends and starting a fashion dialogue, what designers did you collaborate with on the styling?
I have built up a knowledge of resort brands from around the world and have always enjoyed getting off the beaten path to discover new ones. I have bought things from Annie’s Ibiza and Lunaflo London, JW Anderson and Juan De Dios from the beginning in Season 1 because they seem to fit into the world so beautifully. This season I continued a relationship with Valentino because their ESCAPE collection was the most divine match for us, and I also worked closely with Jacquemus to custom make some outfits for the character Chloe. There are many things that didn’t make the series, having to make edits but keeping options open - a two-piece set made from vintage towels is waiting in the wings!
From custom Jacquemus to vintage Chanel the White Lotus guest don’t exactly pack light, where did you source the costumes?
Everywhere! Rental houses, flea markets, showrooms, retail, online, local bazaars - Instagram has always been incredibly useful for real life inspiration and to find smaller, unique designers.
How did you infuse a sense of local style and authenticity into this season?
We bought fabrics, custom made all the uniforms, utilized my Thai team for the traditional dance costumes, found local jewellery and market finds - we always imagine the guests get a few pieces from the gift shops and we weave the colours and prints of Thailand into the looks.
Your White Lotus inspired resort wear collab for H&M sold out within days, how did that project come about?
That was a dream come true, to collaborate on a retail collection based on the costume design of the show. We used all my inspiration for the show and my experience in Thailand and distilled it into a wearable and packable capsule for the White Lotus Fashion Fans who are dreaming of their own tropical adventure.
Tell us about the vintage chiffon Chanel kaftan that Jaclyn’s wearing by the pool on her first day in Thailand Jaclyn.
My husband found that in LA ! He and I have worked together for ten years, and we both love the hunt at the beginning – that Chanel truly is a PIECE ! Michelle who plays Jaclyn loved to glide along to the pool in it and it and wanted to feel like a butterfly, so that one was a win.
How do you use labels to convey the financial status and social standing of the guests?
We are big on the accessories. A bag and some jewellery and some fierce eyewear are the right investments to convey status. Jaclyn’s Hermes watch, Victoria’s Gucci purse or Kate’s Cartier Love Bracelets are gorgeous and expensive classics.
For obvious, eye watering, reasons there was a lot of excitement around the Che Studios swim shorts sighting on Patrick Schwarzenegger in episode 1, any favourite fashion moments for you?
I love those swim trunks ! The BALLER shorts! I love Sritala’s Gary Graham custom made cape that she wears to performs in Episode 2! Some party dresses upcoming in Episode 7, and Chloe’s Jacquemus on the yacht. But the real overlooked fashion star is Fabian, if you ask me. I wonder when fashion editors will catch on to how Indo-Western chic….?
What’s next for you project wise?
I WANT TO DO JAMES BOND!