Celebrating its 40th year, London’s best-known landmarks, including the London Eye and the Royal Opera House, were lit up in green to mark the start of LFW.
Launched in 1984, the bi-annual event was the brainchild of PR guru Lynne Franks (immortalised by Edina in Ab Fab). From Alexander McQueen's spectacles to Richard Quinn initiating Queen Elizabeth II into the FROW, there’s no disputing that London remains a hotbed of creative talent.
Throughout the decades, LFW has showcased established, and emerging, British talent - from supermodels Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, to iconic designers including Matthew Williamson, Stella McCartney and of course the late Alexander McQueen.
The anniversary edition hosted 67 designers across 46 catwalks and 36 events, here are some of the highlights.
Harris Reed's ‘Shadow Dance’
Harris Reed kick started LFW with a breath-taking collection hosted at Tate Britain. Reed showed a collection of 10 dresses inspired by the dolls fashioned from stacks of Vogues and National Geographics as a child. Repurposing and piecing together Fromental’s archive of silk wallpapers and using them as fabrics the Victoriana-inspired collection played with colour and print. No doubt Queen B and Harry Styles have already placed their orders.
Simone Rocha’s ‘The Wake’
Presented at St Bartholomew The Great Church Simone’s collection, marked the third of a triptych, which started with her 'Dress Rehearsal' collection last September and continued with her 'The Procession' couture collection that she made in collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier last month. An exploration of the mourning dress of Queen Victoria, Simone fused Celtic mystery with French fashion. Combining nostalgic elements with contemporary details, highlights included taffeta capes and coats in midnight blue.
Tulo Choker
One of London’s most exciting talents, Toly Choker drew inspiration from Accra’s roadside vendors for her joyful and colourful collection. The British-Nigerian designer continued to celebrate community, culture and craft, with her vivid and vivacious ultra-feminine cuts and intricate denim patchworks demonstrating her notable prowess. An accomplished yet playful collection, Tolu collaborated with Virna Pasquinelli on a range of oversized bowlers, towering basket hats and baseball caps, reimagined with somewhat surprising UGG boots. Tulo is one to watch.
Molly Goddard’s Take on the Wild West
Molly Goddard’s clothes are all about making you feel undeniably feminine. Asking us to embrace our inner cowgirls (after all, why not?) the covetable collection blended her signature taffeta with colourful cowboy boots. Eclectic, directional, fun…. parts of it were inspired by her ebay wishlist. “Maybe this is only my frame of mind…but, to me, wearing taffeta is a bit like wearing a tracksuit, but just feeling a bit better,” she said. “I feel far sexier wearing something big and oversized and not body con. I know that's not how everyone feels, but I think there is a comfort to them. And they make you feel confident and quite strong. That's my take on femininity.” Molly, we love you for it.
Roksanda
The wonderful Roksanda. Embarking on a journey ‘where the connection between family and history, human and nature, past and present co-exist’ Roksanda presented a colour-filled collection inspired by the holiday home of Swiss French architect Le Corbusier. Inspired by windows, intricate wire zipped gowns tumbled in waves and appeared to froth as models walked down the runway. The highlight was a showstopping tapestry cape that took 200 hours to make. The Serbian born designer and red-carpet favourite remains one of London’s biggest draws.
JW Anderson
Grey hair reigned supreme at JW Anderson where the Northern Irish designer sent models down the runway with super curly grey wigs. Promptly titled as ‘granny chic’ all over Instagram the collection focused on skimpy matching knitwear sets presenting a new take on underwear-as-outerwear. Commercial and experimental, expect wearable takes to trickle down to the main stream.
Burberry
Closing LFW Danielle Lee’s third collection for Burberry reinterpreted iconic symbols of the brand, fusing tradition with his innovative vision. Reinforcing the brands heritage and bringing it back to the forefront of the global stage, the runway show featured noughties names Agyness Dean and Edie Campbell walking to the soundtrack of Amy Winehouse. Phoebe Philo’s daughter Mia Wigram closed the show which was held in London’s Victoria Park. A seamless transition between the outdoors and the indoors prepare to invest in a timeless Burberry trench dress come fall.